Ohhhh Essaouira

Ok, I loved it here…loved loved loved! Perhaps dare I say it my fav place thus far (Marrakesh is still to come!). This laid back beach town was the perfect mix of casual and cool .. literally cool. Only reaching 35+ during the day and with a nice breeze off the lake, in Essaouira I could walk around and not use the phrase “it is so hot I feel like my skin is burning off”. Days were spent in the hassle free markets, lying out on the beach, exploring the UNESCO protected Medina walls and hanging out late night at surf bars with the locals. A must must in this costal town is having lunch in the fish market. Sweet and succulent, select a fresh fish right off the boat and they will fry it right up in front of you. SOOO yummy this was one of my fav things to do… served with Moroccan salad, fries and washed down with a Fanta it was a fabulous treat for my inner foodie!

Todra Gorge

The Todra Gorge was a welcomed break from the heat as our hotel was situated right in the heart of the Gorge (aka the SHADE). The beautiful natural rock formations brilliantly burst with color and the red and orange hues only intensified during our sunset hike (aka death defying rock climb). Perfect for pictures and simply to catch a moment of peace and quite, this gorgeous gorge is well worth stopping (and even staying over) for.

Would you like some tea with your mint?

Drinking mint tea in Morocco is one of the most common sites and experiences that one will encounter. Not just for tourists, mint tea is a local staple and the tradition has spread north across the ocean to nearby Spain. The popularity of this has ranked Morocco amongst the top tea importers in the world. Made with green tea and fresh mint leaves, this highly caffeinated beverage boasts many health benefits including good digestion, soothing a sore throat and calming the nerves. While cooking is most commonly done by the women in the house, tea preparation is traditionally a man’s job. The ritual preparation or atai varies slightly across the country and the tea is always finished with a heaping helping of sugar! Interesting to note, the more north you are the sweeter the tea normally is. Although at first I found it difficult to drink such a sweet beverage, its sugary taste has long since grown on me and now I always look forward to tea time.

Typical Preparations (courtesy of Wikipedia)

· In a teapot, combine two teaspoons of tea-leaf with half a litre of boiling water. Allow it to steep for at least fifteen minutes.
· Without stirring, filter the mixture into a different stainless steel pot, so that the tea leaves and coarse powder are removed.
· Add sugar (about one teaspoon per decilitre).
· Bring to boil over a medium heat. This important step in the preparation process allows the sugar to undergo hydrolysis, giving the tea its distinctive taste.
· If desired, add fresh mint leaves to the teapot or directly to the cup. Remember to remove the mint within two minutes, as it can give some people acid reflux.
· Moroccan tea is poured from a silver teapot at distance into a small glass cup. The lengthy pouring should produce a slight foam on the tea.

Traditionally the tea is served three times, and the amount of time the tea has been steeping gives each of the three glasses of tea a unique flavor, described in this famous proverb:
Le premier verre est aussi amer que la vie,le deuxième est aussi fort que l'amour,le troisième est aussi doux que la mort. The first glass is as bitter as life,the second glass is as strong as love,the third glass is as gentle as death.

Hiking All Sorts of Hills

Morocco has many wonderful hikes from the simple inclined stroll to the death defying mountain side scale. Throughout my time here, I have been lucky enough to hike in the Chefchaouen countryside, the Sahara dunes, the Todra gorge and today the High Atlas Mountains. Far from a simple stroll, this 7 hour 15k hike up the switch backed mountain path was long, difficult in sections but oh so satisfying to summit. With a beautiful view, (including believe it or not SNOW!) and a goat filled peak, this day long hike was a wonderful break from the city shopping, the sweltering heat and the aggressive shop keepers!

The Sweet and Sweaty Sahara

(check out my turban)

Quaint and quite, the sweet little desert retreat was a welcome change from all the rapid, fast paced city exploring. Situated in the Sahara, here the temperature was hot, the pace was slow and the pool was cold! Spending one night sleeping on the roof top terrace and the other night in a Bedouin desert camp we were able to experience desert life like the local Berber tribes. Camel rides, dune climbing, and afternoon siestas to escape the sun are a Sahara must and if you are lucky.. you might just have wifi.. go figure!

Tanneries in Fes

Other than camel burgers, Fes is known for it's leather goods which are dyed in their local tanneries. Every morning HUGE vats of dye are filled and the fresh hides are dipped, dropped and drenched in the different pools of color. Red from poppies, Yellow from saffron, Blue from indigo and green from mint. The vats are lined up and together, the rainbow of colors yields the beautifully tinted leather goods we see today. Super stunning to visit my only word of caution is the odor from the fresh hides if awfully smelly. Bring a little fresh mint to sniff and your visit will be as sweet as can be!

ps.. the best time to go is first thing in the am, this is when the vats are filled and radiant with color!

Camel Burgers at Cafe Clock

After a hot day getting lost in the alleyways of the Fes medina there is nothing more refreshing than a milkshake (date that is) and a camel burger... yes you heard me right camel. This delicious Moroccan delicacy is done just right at Cafe Clock ( a cute little restaurant just off the main gates of the medina that does American food with a Moroccan spin ). It was juicy, loaded with flavor, cooked to perfection and was the most scrumptious ending to a very very hot day. With fresh cut french fries, a yummy little salad and homemade ketchup to bout this burger was such a treat and a terrific way to end the day.

A lil’ Chefchaouen hospitality

Deep in the heart of the Medina, wound around corners and between the beautiful blue washed walls, we met a man by the name of Mohsine Ngadi. His brilliant paintings lined one of the alleyways and we couldn’t help but stop to stare. Looking turned to talking and talking turned into a dinner invitation. Not just eating but an opportunity to cook with him and his shop keepers a traditional Moroccan Goat (the most common in Chefchaouen) tagine. Agreeing to rendezvous back at the studio at 8pm we parted ways and eagerly awaited our little lesson in Moroccan cuisine.

Needing to cook for at least 2 hours we chopped, sliced and diced as fast as we could as our bellies were rumbling. While we waited we laughed, exchanged stories and enjoyed a cold glass of cola. The room grew increasingly fragrant and before we knew it we were ready to eat. Served family style and sans utensils, we all dug in with fresh bread from the market. The meat was succulent and tender and the vegetables sopped up all the scrumptious flavors of the sauce. With our minds filled from story telling and our bellies filled of tagine, we served desert (which we brought as a gift) and acknowledged in silence how lucky we were to have relished in this experience.

Goat Tagine

2 lb……...goat cut into chunks
10 ………carrots pealed and cut
5………...potatoes pealed and cut into quarters
3………...onions pealed and cut half and then quartered
2………...tomatoes halved then quartered
½ cup …..olives
2 cups ….water

Bunch of Parsley
Paprika, Ginger about 3 tbs
Salt & Pepper to Taste
Pinch of Saffron
Fresh Bread
In a large pot layer 1) onions 2) goat meat 3) parsley 4) spices & few shakes of salt and pepper
Pour a cup of water into the pot from the side ( not over the spices)
Let simmer for an hour, turning to keep tagine from burning, add the rest of the water gradually over time
After one hour, add the olives, potatoes, tomatoes and carrots, tomatoes should simmer and dissolve into the sauce
Continue to simmer and stir occasionally for another ½ hour or so (aka full hour) , add salt and pepper to taste
Serve family style with fresh bread …. Delish!

Rabat - Le Tour Hassan

Worth the walk from the Medina, Le Tour Hassan was oh so beautiful and the surrounding gardens were a stunning surprise! This tower, standing at 44m high was supposed to reach 60m (making it the second largest mosque of its time) but Sultan Yacoub al-Mansour died before its completion and sadly it never reached its intended peak. In 1755, a terrible earthquake shattered the mosque and what we see today is beautiful but merely a shadow of its former self. The gardens are great place to seek shelter from the sun and the pillar remains for climbing, stretching and the occasional yoga pose!

Solarium (or a little piece of heaven)

There is nothing more beautiful then a stunning sandy beach except a stunning beach club on that sandy beach. A short trek from the grottes and a mile or so down from the beaches entrance, sits a lovely little seaside oasis that has simply captured my heart. With plush lounge chairs more comfortable than my bed and big luxurious umbrellas, this little piece of heaven was such a pleasant surprise. For 50d (5 euros..so cheep how could you resist) you can rent a lounger for the day and be pampered by the cute, clean cut cabana boys, a vision in white. Hungry? Never fear lunch is available from the sweet little seaside cafe at the club... I highly recommend the grilled calamari. It was so delicious and perfectly cooked. Washed down with a cola while keeping cool beneath the cabana shade.. really what could be better!

Grottes d' Hercule

With little left to conquer in Tangiers, we decided to take a taxi to the grottes d'Hercule. This beautiful cave was onced quarried for milestones and now is most often used for private parties thrown by the local rich and famous. The cave itself is stunning but the main attraction for most is the look out. I however, was most in love with the beautiful nooks in the caves as they provided shelter from the hot Moroccon sun and a perfect place to do a little stretching!

Le salon bleu dar nour

Perched high on top of the kasbah in Tangier, sits a little oasis, so breathtakingly beautiful and lovely that one can't help but stop to rest their feet after a long day in the souk. With splendid views from their roof top patio, plush sofas, wonderful wicker furniture and a 10 washroom, it was such a treat to lounge here, rest my eyes and soak up the afternoon sun. You may have some difficulty finding the kasbah but don't get discouraged... just keep heading uphill and soon you will find it. Once at the very top be sure to and reward yourself with a cup of mint tea at Le salon bleu dar nour.... it was by far the best part of my day and my MUST DO in Tangier!

taking a break from reality

Needing a break from it all i have packed up and journeyed to a far off land.
Morocco... a land where snakes are charmed, mint tea rules all and Aladdin lives. For the next three weeks i will travel from Casablanca to Marrakesh and everywhere in between... Very excited for my adventure and to share all my Morocco loves.. xo